Fiona Coleman, a colour and trends consultant for fashion and textiles, shares some of her favourite collections from Playtime Paris SS25.
FITH
A welcome addition to the show, FITH (pictured above) is a heritage Japanese company that exhibited for the first time in Paris to expand its presence in Europe and look for UK retailers. Established in 1982, it has a flagship store in Osaka and 15 other direct sales stores around Japan. With a long-time collaboration in the US, it is now beginning to expand to overseas markets. Fith Co. Ltd has four different kidswear brands with various looks and styles. Fith, its namesake, is a casual brand with unique natural materials and high-quality, simple designs. Denim Dungaree has a recycled look with denim, jersey and handmade details, while Go To Hollywood has a vintage, casual style. Finally, Groovycolors is an urban street fashion collection inspired by culture in the 80s and 90s featuring bold, colourful graphics. We love the casual genderless styling and quality of the fabrics.
Contact: https://fith.co.jp/contact /@fith_official
Solo Escucho Rap
Solo Escucho Rap is a brand that was born in 2021 in Buenos Aires, Argentina. It emerged to offer a Latin American style for children characterised by its street spirit and joyful, quirky touches. A mostly unisex collection for ages 2-14 years, its strength lies in its windbreaker and waterproof fabrics, many of which are recycled polyester and nylon. In 2024 the brand moved its headquarters to Barcelona to expand its market and start distributing to the rest of Europe and Asia. This was Solo Escucho Rap’s first time at Playtime, and also its first wholesale collection for Europe. Too Cool for School represents the brand’s streetwear spirit. Key styles include colour-blocked tracksuits, cool cotton vests and short sets, and its iconic waterproof jackets. We love the bright colours and bold diagonal stripe outfits with coordinated accessories.
Contact: carmen@alen.com.ar / @solo.escucho.rap
Maison Loucha
Founded in 2024, Maison Loucha debuted at this season’s edition of Playtime Paris. Hailing from France, it is a resolutely positive brand, with a timeless and durable collection for ages 4-14 years. “We reinvent children’s classic wardrobes by incorporating strong details and optimistic messages to convey our philosophy of life: “Dare – Live – Grow” in French “Oser – Vivre – Grandir.” For production, the brand opts for partners that are respectful of the environment and human rights. Key items in the s/s 25 collection include denim and striped overalls, relaxed jersey unisex items, and a retro floral capsule for girls. It has also developed various prints – floral, animal, striped and geometric – applying them to essential children’s wardrobe pieces like T-shirts, sweatshirts or overalls, always including positive messages around its philosophy of life.
Contact: c.huot@maisonloucha.com / @maisonloucha
PLAY
Since its launch in 2022, PLAY’s mission has been to design thoughtful garments that are not only comfortable but are an invitation to let children play, to be curious, to explore, and grow to their full potential. In previous collections, the brand made bold decisions, such as placing its labels on the outside to avoid irritation, subsequently establishing a strong design trademark. With a background in fashion design and experience working with renowned brands like Under Armour, Zara and Puma, founder Diana Badosa has a deep understanding of fabric technology and ergonomic design. PLAY’s s/s 25 concept, The Language of Sports, draws inspiration from the real story of a journey that two autistic children took through sailing, and how sport helped them to integrate. The collection features a duo-fabric design that combines packable, lightweight and technical materials with 100% cotton fabrics, all in one piece. Taking inspiration from the textures of sailing ropes, it features hues of the ocean and the dynamic shapes of sails caught in the wind. As part of the strategy to expand the brand, PLAY and Don Fisher have partnered for this collection. Several common traits connect them, but the decision-maker was the fun and naivety of the childhood look-and-feel that Don Fisher brings to PLAY clothes. The result is a perfect balance enabling freedom of movement and the spirit of playfulness. The key piece is a packable Windstopper that transforms into a Don Fisher Seabass bum bag. Together, the brands celebrate the sea, embodying the spirit of adventure, inclusion and limitless possibilities.
Contact: diana@theplay.store / @play.active.barcelona
Goldie + Ace
Goldie + Ace is an Australian brand with a focus on creating quality baby and toddler clothing designed to last and be loved. Taking inspiration from retro styles, its design approach is guided by a simple principle: create clothing that kids can wear, cherish and pass on. Based in Melbourne, the brand also loves to highlight the place it calls home. Designs based on classic styles include overalls that they had growing up during the 80s and 90s. The brand also has a waste-free online shopping experience, a free mending service, and provides a marketplace (Re-worn) for its community to sell their gently-used Goldie + Ace pieces. Corn starch garment bags are a compostable alternative to a traditional polybag and recycled paper mailers are biodegradable and compostable. Everything is designed in-house, and it collaborates with a small team in China who handmake everything to ensure nothing is produced in large factories. Production is slow but much more personal, with the Oeko-Tex certification meaning no harmful substances are used in the production, including dyes, prints and finishing. With retailers across Australia and international presence in the US, Canada and Japan, the brand used Playtime Paris as an opportunity to meet buyers across Europe. We love the colours and details that bring a sense of nostalgia but also feel entirely modern.
Contact: care@goldieandace.com / @goldieandace
Cozmo
Cozmo emerged in 2014 as a small brand dedicated to crafting beautiful, high-quality garments linked with a mission to minimise environmental impact. Its history is deeply rooted in a rich heritage of textile production; a family business that has been dedicated to craftsmanship for over 70 years, passing down its traditions and knowledge through three generations. As designers and makers, they blend the elegance of timeless classics with the vibrancy of modern trends. The brand’s small workshop near Barcelona serves as the heart of its creative process, partnering with other local workshops for production. Each piece benefits from a collaborative effort that emphasises local production and community. Cozmo is on an ongoing journey towards greater sustainability in all aspects of its business. The s/s 25 collection, Blooming Days & Horses, tells the story of a group of friends reunited in a ranch house where horses roam freely and wildflowers grow everywhere. Covering looks for every stage of childhood, from newborns and babies to children, the collection features a palette of soft blue, sage green, ecru, strawberry sorbet, lemon yellow, indigo, sand and peach, with white and highlights of sports green and bright orange. Materials include organic cottons and linens, lightweight denim stripes, micro gingham seersuckers, woven and towelling stripes, cotton muslin pieces in delicate stripes, and checks for baby. Some of our favourite styles include PJ bottoms with broderie trim paired with lightweight eyelet summer knit vests, ditsy floral sets, easy PJ stripe bottoms with broderie trim, and textured stripe jersey unisex sweat sets with rope appliqué graphics.
Contact: sales@mylittlecozmo.com / @mylittlecozmo
Koku Factory
Koku Factory is an eco-sustainable children’s swim brand from Tenerife whose USP is the use of recycled, quick-dry fabrics. “When selecting a swimming costume for children, we think it’s essential to consider textile materials that are fast drying and provide UPF +50 protection, allowing kids to carry on playing comfortably outside the water.” Over the years the range has expanded to include matching jackets which have the same protection. All the raw materials are certified: Oeko-Tex, Global Recycled Standard, OCS 100, and OCS Blended. Its textiles (Ecowave) are manufactured with SEAQUAL and other 100% recycled spinning. In addition, both the Lycra and the PES are produced with recycled threads made from plastic collected from the Mediterranean Sea. All production takes place locally in Tenerife, where the brand has a community of skilled workers who also form part of a labour integration project; most of those workers are living with a disability. Koku Factory is passionate about the environment, and with each collection, it strives to minimise the impact that its manufacturing might have on the environment.
Contact: info@kokufactory.com / @kokufactory
Petite Revery
Petite Revery or “Little Daydream” by Nest Designs, from Vancouver, Canada, is made for the little dreamers in your life. A tribute to child-like wonder, its clothing celebrates a time of imagination where the simplest things become a gateway to a wondrous new world. The brand has an exclusive UK contract with Harrods for 2024, which it is using as a launchpad to present itself to a wider UK audience for s/s 25. Petite Revery is a member of 1% for the Planet, donating one per cent of sales, not profits, directly to environmental organisations that are committed to making the planet a better place. The theme for s/s 25 is Summer Seafarer. Crossing calm seas of cloudy blues and sandy taupes under sunsets of mellow yellows for a nostalgic vacation by the sea. Some highlights from the range include the retro textured knits, chambray with multicolour popper fastenings, reversible quilted vests, quick dry cooling jersey, and the jersey cooling UV jacket. With its unique prints and embroidered interchangeable patches, it is a fun, practical collection with many genderless items for ages 18 months to 10 years.
Contact: sales@petiterevery.com /@petiterevery
Appulu
This childrenswear brand from India handcrafts each of its pieces using traditional techniques from diverse cultures. As a sustainable company, it uses eco-friendly materials and ethical production practices. Showing both at Pitti Bimbo and Playtime Paris this season, we have loved Appulu’s combination of artisan-crafted materials and playful design since it launched several seasons ago. The collection continues to grow in confidence with a good balance between design and practicality. For the s/s 25 collection, it proposes two themes. Firstly, Garden Symphony. This magical collection for happy times like picnics, lunches and playdates, all spent surrounded by nature’s wonder, takes inspiration from the simple joys of being in gardens and playing freely. “Each piece in this collection is like a flower, unique and beautiful in its own way, yet together they create something even more special.” The Sun, Sand and Sea collection embodies the essence of cherished summer holidays. It captures the essence of carefree days spent collecting seashells and counting starfish, all under the watchful eyes of parents ensuring safe exploration. Highlights include the watercolour floral prints on both girls’ dresses and matching boys’ shirts, and beautiful hand-embroidered flower and beach scenes on natural linen.
Contact: appulu.india@gmail.com / @appulu.co
Coucoucava
With over 30 years of shoe production experience, the family brand Coucoucava is launching its third collection this season. It continues its signature approach of ‘design inspired by children’s movement and their way of seeing the world with sparks of curiosity.’ Building on non-compromising quality, putting children’s comfort and growth as the priority, it offers wide-toe barefoot designs for new walkers to pre-teens. The s/s 25 collection introduces a new Basic line – Black, White and Blue for everyday wear – alongside maximising joy with an upbeat seasonal colour palette and fun designs. Coucoucava has also introduced removable parts to some styles. Its iconic question mark detail is now detachable, allowing for two different ways of wearing the style, as well as a simple activation for children’s curiosity. Exhibiting at both Pitti Bimbo and Playtime Paris this season, the brand aims to attract European customers as well as expand in the UK.
Contact: hello@coucoucava.com / @_coucoucava_
Playtime Paris will return on 25-27 January 2025. To visit Fiona Coleman’s Instagram, please click here.