Knowing if a license will be successful for childrenswear at retail is about “reading the mood of the nation,” says Blues Group licensing, design and sales director, Ruth Golightly.

 

“You need to tap into whatever is going on in the country at the time,” said the former George and Next buyer. “An extreme example of this is Covid. Everybody’s lifestyle changed and that had a positive effect on much of the licensing industry. Many retailers with a mature ecommerce site with licensed product did well. Retailers such as Asda and Character.com both had amazing sales throughout Covid.”

Golightly points to Disney as another example of the importance of timing.

“Covid was the perfect time for Disney+ to launch on TV and this had a massive halo effect on Disney consumer products because – throughout lockdowns – it was entertaining millions of kids who were connecting with their favourite characters. As a result, we saw parents, grandparents and wider family buying Disney products because they wanted to make children smile during what was a really testing time.

“And for the kids, licensed apparel – whether that was swimwear to play outside in the garden, or nightwear as they were getting dressed for bed – connected them to brands they trust and are familiar with. It made them feel safe.”

 

 

Licensing doesn’t always have to follow trends, Golightly is keen to point out – it can also set them.

“The resurrection of all things 90s is a notable example of this. The return of Friends and Rugrats reinvented for a younger generation. And when retailers got behind Harry Potter, we saw this huge collegiate trend come through. It’s exciting to see how licensing can have such an impact on trends, as well as vice versa.”

Of course, long-term success with a license isn’t quite as simple as just trend spotting. Retailers and manufacturers can work with the hottest new or evergreen brands around, but most will eventually fall in and out of favour, often as new brands launch alongside them. The key is to be prepared for those potential dips in popularity and have plans that allow you to benefit when they make a comeback.

“Even legends Minnie and Mickey will have periods of elevation followed by a dip and then they come back with an exciting reinvention. It’s the same in the fashion industry, where trends are cyclical. Going back to the 90s, we’re seeing legions of teenagers back in combats and vest tops again.”

 

 

As well as being a great buyer or designer, says Golightly, you also need to understand business generally and the business of licensing specifically.

You do this by “immersing yourself in the industry. Having an open mind. Exploring and being curious. And networking, of course. Get out there and go to events. meet people. That’s how you learn business and it’s also how you develop the confidence to spot the next big childrenswear brand.”

Golightly is one of the retail and licensing experts speaking at Licensing for Retail, a new and free licensing conference for retailers taking place on 19 April at Convene in London. She is taking part in a panel called Licensing Chose Me… alongside Harris McQueen, sales and marketing director EME, Outerstuff, and Will Stewart, founder & MD, The Point.1888.

The session between licensing and retail leaders looks at how they got to where they are today and the qualities they need to set them apart. Golightly will be drawing on her 20+ years’ experience working with licenses to help and support people yet to make their mark in it. “I love this industry,” she adds. “I also love people and I love coaching, and I can’t wait to share my passion and experience with those who are new to the industry at Licensing for Retail in April.”

Licensing for Retail takes place on 19 April at Convene in London and is free to attend for qualified retailers. A limited number of non-retail networking passes are also available to buy for £175.