As Napoleon Bonaparte famously said, “if you want a thing done well, do it yourself”. This was the mindset of designer Louise Shill on founding luxury children’s footwear brand Young Soles. Shill’s frustration when trying to find footwear she liked for her first daughter, Rosie, inspired her to design an alternative to the “sensible” and “glitter-covered” choices she faced. Instead, she developed children’s footwear to her own taste; cool, retro-inspired British classics with a modern twist.
Prior to launching Young Soles, seasoned footwear designer, Shill, had worked both in-house and as a freelance footwear designer across multiple brands and categories. Drawing on this varied experience she noted many of the constructions being used in children’s footwear design had not kept pace with the men’s and women’s footwear market. By applying her skills designing for adults whilst also taking inspiration from footwear she remembered from her own childhood, Shill began creating simple, British classic shoes for children.
Following a positive reaction to initial samples, Shill worked alongside her partner, whose background is in branding and marketing, to launch Young Soles’ debut collection at the Bubble London trade fair in 2014.
“We like to take contemporary adult styles and constructions, add our Young Soles retro-cool magic, and create the coolest footwear for kids,” says Stuart Anderson, Young Soles’ CEO. “Our brand ethos is to inspire childhood memories, either through our footwear (‘I had a pair just like those when I was growing up!’) or through our photography and branding.”
Design inspiration
When designing Young Soles’ collections, Shill draws heavily on nostalgia; whether that be her own childhood, a song or style movement, the memory of an old toy, or simply an old photograph found in the loft.
The s/s 20 collection, for instance, is inspired by a visit to grandma’s house. The collection embraces a vintage, mid-20th century colour palette of clementine, chestnut brown, mustard, ocean blue, pea green, smoky sage and, for the first time on a Young Soles shoe, a floral print.
“Inspiration for the s/s 20 collection came from a house we found hidden away on the Kent coast,” continues Anderson. “As well as retaining many of its original features – think wood panelling, an orange and brown colour scheme, large floral prints and chunky knit throws – it also had a beautiful garden looking out to the French coast that provided the perfect backdrop for our s/s 20 photoshoot.”
The collection
Young Soles’ offer has expanded considerably over the years and now comprises three main categories. Since launch it has produced the Classic collection, a range of core styles and colours that are consistently in-demand. These shoes, sandals and boots remain the brand’s bestsellers, regardless of season or territory, with new styles and colours introduced each season.
The seasonal collection does what it says on the tin; offering ranges for spring/summer and autumn/winter with styles and colours based on a creative theme for the season.
New vegan offer
Finally, launching for s/s 20, is the new Vegan collection. Since its inception, Young Soles has received requests to create shoes, sandals and boots for vegetarian and vegan families. To meet this demand, it is producing a selection of its best-loved styles in animal-free materials. To support the Vegan collection’s launch in early 2020, Young Soles is introducing a dedicated vegan section to its website.
“One of our aims is not only to bring British heritage and contemporary styling to children’s footwear but also to offer a wide range of footwear to suit many occasions and requirements,” says Anderson. “Up until now, we have achieved this through different styles, colours and soles. However, last season we took the decision to take some of our most popular summer styles and make them using sustainable and recyclable materials. The plan now is to add one or two new vegan styles each season.”
Young Soles’ vegan footwear features state-of-the-art materials manufactured in Europe by Grupo Morón. Feedback to the Vegan collection has been very positive; particularly in European markets, where many of Young Soles’ larger European stockists have bought into the range.
All about the sole
As well as three collections, Young Soles also offers five different sole types. EVA is the brand’s signature lightweight sole. It uses a natural leather rand that is cemented to the sole for decoration purposes – as opposed to a true stitched welt construction. As well as being shock absorbent, the sole moulds to the shape of the foot meaning no need for orthopaedics.
There is also a hard-wearing and non-slip natural rubber sole. This is available on many of the brand’s sandals and stitch-down shoes. As the rubber soles are harder on the foot than the EVA styles, Young Soles uses a contoured, cushioned insole. It can, however, be removed should a child require a specialist orthopaedic insole.
For its top-end styles the brand uses leather soles with a herringbone textured, anti-slip injected rubber forepart insert and a rubber top piece. Sportier styles, meanwhile, feature cupsole outsoles made from TR rubber. This sees the shoes benefit from a rubber bumper that reduces wear on the leather in “high rub” areas. Finally, baby shoes incorporate a simple rubber sole cemented to a suede leather base for grip and underfoot protection.
The majority of Young Soles’ footwear starts at size EU 20 and finishes at size EU 35. However, it does have smaller early walker shoes that start at size EU 17. Some of its styles also run to size EU 40.
Wholesale strategy
Although Young Soles has an online store, it only makes up a very small percentage of sales. The majority of the brand’s business is wholesale. This includes over 150 stockists in 25 countries worldwide and distributors in three major markets.
The brand’s biggest growth area at the moment is America; something it will be capitalising on with interesting plans and developments over the next 12 months. The other area of immediate interest is the UK, as Anderson goes on to explain.
“Ironically, the UK is not a territory that we have spent much time on,” he says. “However, our brand seems to have grown to a point where we are being noticed by some interesting retailers and we hope to take advantage of this to grow recognition and availability.”
Buyers wishing to view Young Soles’ new a/w 20 collection can do so at Gallery Shoes in Dusseldorf on 8-10 March. Whilst we can’t give too much away, what we can tell you is that the a/w 20 collection offers a continuation of developing key styles from a/w 19. This includes the brand’s popular wool-lined boots. Young Soles will also be adding more casual styles to the rubber-soled collection. With regard to the look and colour schemes, the brand is building on the previous two seasons.
A brand with soul
Young Soles has a strong and clear stance when it comes to sustainable business. One of its founding directors spent a considerable period of their career working with large corporations on their sustainability strategies and practices. Subsequently, sustainable thinking is well and truly ingrained in the brand’s DNA.
“We believe a sustainable business is one that operates in a sustainable way and obviously this covers environmental issues and labour practices, but also so much more,” says Anderson. “For instance, what is it doing to ensure that it has a positive impact guaranteeing its long-term existence and not just a short-term profit?
“We do what we can to ensure our business is having a positive impact on its environment – people, partners and the world. This includes internal working practices and sourcing sustainable and ethical materials through to sending our old samples to charities.”
So, what’s next?
Young Soles’ short- and long-term plans have always been the same; to keep creating the coolest footwear for kids that stays true to its brand ethos of inspiring childhood memories. “The day we make a pair of shoes that we wouldn’t put on our own children is the day we know it is time to stop,” concludes Anderson.
